It’s our first morning back in Hall Quarry, Maine on the pier at J.W. Boat Co. We wake up to find that Rick, our enthusiastic escort captain is eager to share that he has a two hour tour of parts of the island that includes breakfast at the local cafe. While Hokule’a has been sailing around the world, her crews has shared the importance of learning local knowledge not only from indigenous people, but also from mariners who have been sailing and motoring all over the places we visit. Rick, with his lobster boat, the Quinipet, has been traversing these East Coast waters for decades and, fortunately for us, has an oven that’s been baking us blueberry muffins along the way. Quinipet has been a companion for Hokulea for our Leg 22 visit from Maine to Yarmouth, Canada and back. Rick has been extremely helpful in giving advice, knowing where to avoid and best routes for our journey. We are thankful for his willingness to help with this journey and be a part of the crew, like many other friends we’ve met these past three years.
Our first stop is to Brandon & Laura’s cafe, where the sign says “Eat where the locals eat.” There are random humorous signs that hang everywhere which include “Fish stories told here - ‘some true’” and “Business hours subject to change during fishing season.” Even though we’re off watch, the voyage continues on land. No matter where we go, people are interested in why we sail and so discussions soon started with the locals of the place with us strangers who were clearly not from around these parts. A man even gave us a magic show where he made one dollar bills turn into 100 dollar bills; we adults were actually quite impressed. After a breakfast full of homemade oatmeal, cinnamon bread, and blue berry pancakes with real maple syrup, we set out on a mobile tour guided by captain Rick.
Down the rocks of Bass Harbor head, we visited the light house where we learned that this was the location where Captain Rick proposed to his wife. We passed Beech Hill farm that looks so beautiful with all kinds of fresh food growing. We saw rows and rows of kale and it looked like they were harvesting beets in the field. Rick swears by their tomatoes as well. We had a choice to go ma uka or ma kai, towards the mountains or towards the sea. We chose ma uka. Climbing up the smooth rocks, some of the crew naturally took off their slippers to hike. We learned how to tell the difference between fur and spruce trees; “flat flexible fur, sharp spiky spruce.” Barefooted we reached the top of Beech Hill where an old fire watch station still stands. There once was a time where people use to be paid to look for forest fires and direct the firefighters on where to go. Now it is a boarded up relic that has some of the best views of the area. From the top we are able to see the entire ahupuaa; what we call everything from the mountain to the sea at home. Rick stands pointing to every lake, hill and mountain by name because he is connected to this place.
I encourage you to go on a hike and look around just like how we did today. Can you name every mountain or river? Do you know the stories of your place? Draw a map and if you don’t know the answers, go find them. Mālama honua, taking care of the world begins with deeply knowing and taking care of the places we call home.
Aloha mai kakou e na haumana, na kumu, na makua, na hoamakamaka o keia huakai holomoana a puni o ka honua nei o Hokulea!
O wau no o Kaaiohelo. Aia wau ma ka hui 22 o keia huakai kaapuni honua. Ke ku nei wau ma keia aina ui no hoi e, me ke ea oluolu, ka wao nahele piha i ka laau paina, a ke kai piha i ka ula, o ia no o Maine.
Aole ike paha oukou, aka he pilina pili loa no hoi keia wahi me Hokulea. Noonoo paha oe, ma hea ka pilina? Ma mua o kona huakai a puni o ka honua, he manawa nui e hoomakaukau waa ma kahi o ka makahiki 2011. Ma ia makahiki no i kukulu ai i na iako o Hokulea ma keia aina nei!
Haaheo no hoi na kanaka ma keia wahi i keia pilina. Mahalo e Jaq, ka luna o JW Boat Company no ke kukulu ana i kona mau iako a no ka malama pono ana a hookipa ana ia makou.
O Jaq, ke alakai e kukulu i na iako, he ohana o ia me Anakala Nainoa a me Anakala Bruce! Komo makou i kona hale a ike i kekahi kii pena o Mokulua. Me he hale ma Hawaii la.
Aloha nui keia mau poe i ke kai e like me makou na poe ma Hawaii. Hookahi la, ua hoe makou i kekahi waa. Eono poe ka nui o ka waa. Aole paha ike na poe Maine i keia ano waa i kela me keia la. Maopopo iau no ka mea nana wale lakou me na maka nui ke hoe like ka hui a ke lohe akula, “hut... ho...” Akaaka no hoi keia.
Ma na wahi a pau, he pilina. Ina aole oe ike i ka pilina, e nana hou.
Mahalo nui no ka heluhelu ana! A hui hou!
Aloha everyone, students, teachers, parents and friends of this worldwide voyage of Hōkūleʻa!
My name is Kaʻaiʻōhelo and I’m on Leg 22. I’m here in Maine, this beautiful place that has such clean air and forests full of pine trees, where the sea is filled with lobster.
The connection between where we are now and Hawaiʻi might not be obvious at first, but there is definitely a deep connection with Hōkūleʻa. You might ask yourself, where is the connection? Before Hōkūleʻa’s sail around the world, there was a very important dry dock, a time to prepare her for her journey around 2011. This is the year that the ‘iako were built for Hōkūleʻa here in this area!
The people who work here are so proud of their connection to Hōkūleʻa. Thank you Jaq, the founder of JW Boat Company for building her ‘iako and for taking good care of us during our visit here. Jaq, the one who oversaw the building of Hōkūleʻa’s ‘iako, is also related to Uncle Nainoa and Uncle Bruce! When we visited Jaq’s home, we saw a painting of the Mokulua in his living room. His house was like a house we’d find back at home.
People here love the ocean just as much as the people in Hawaiʻi. One day we got to paddle a 6 man canoe. I don’t think the people in Maine are used to seeing this kind of canoe out in the water everyday because they look at us with big eyes when we paddle by as we say “hut... ho...” It’s really funny to watch.
In every place, there are connections. If you don’t see a connection, look again.
Thanks for reading! See you again soon!
A lei never forgotten is the beloved child.
Tamiko helped me make this lei for Hōkūle'a.
Niko, thank you for letting mommy travel. We are so lucky to have her as our amazing cook and quartermaster. I know she thinks about you all the time because we love hearing her talk about you.
My parents taught me to always bring a gift when you visit someone's house. Hōkūle'a will be my house for a month so I wanted to give her a lei. She makes any lei look good.
I love making lei for wa'a because even if I'm practicing, no matter the outcome, I know they will always appreciate it.
Mahalo nui to my brother, Ka'ahanuiakaipo, and Mahiku Active Wear for my shirt ❤️ It kept me warm from Hawai'i all the day to Maine!
Ok this label is cute, but is it really necessary?
That's a looong line of planes...
Spilled my drink 😝
To look out of the window of the plane and have land stretch out as far as the eye can see, no wonder we can forget that our land and our resources are limited.
Kumu Kaʻai previously taught at Kānehūnāmoku Voyaging Academy and Hawaiian Studies at Wilson Elementary School to K-5 students.